Paul Smith takes inspiration from father’s photography for Paris Fashion Week

PARIS (AP) — A vibrant energy pulsed through the Paris Fashion Week air as Paul Smith unveiled his fall menswear.

The show, watched by K-Pop star Hongjoong of ATEEZ, was a celebration of photography, a muse that has long captivated the British designer.

At the heart of the collection bloomed the “Field Flower” print, a vibrant ode to the photographs of Sir Paul’s father, Harold. This floral motif, adapted from Harold’s lens, cascaded across shirts, ties, and luxurious jacquard knitwear, weaving a poignant thread of personal history into the fabric of the collection.

The influence of iconic photographers like David Bailey and Terence Donovan was palpable, casting its distinct shadow. Tailoring took on a subtly rebellious air, echoing the photographers’ own idiosyncratic styles, while a rich, inky palette, inspired by Saul Leiter’s evocative color photography, bathed the collection in a moody elegance.

Tradition was playfully subverted. Herringbone wool, typically rigid, was softened through a gentle laundering process, lending a lived-in softness to the garments. Houndstooth and Prince of Wales checks, bold and graphic, were blown up to dramatic proportions, adorning not just clothing but also footwear and accessories.

A touch of unexpected artistry emerged in the form of tailored jackets where contrasting fabrics were artfully juxtaposed, creating subtle yet striking patchwork effects.

A collaboration with Barbour injected a dose of country charm. Reimagined versions of Barbour coats emerged, cloaked in unusual shades of waxed cotton and playfully adorned with Friesian cow motifs, adding a whimsical touch to the rugged elegance.

Sir Paul himself, a master storyteller, guided the audience through Wednesday’s spectacle, offering insightful commentary that brought the designs to life.